"Ask Doctor M.J.Price"

"A Few Pet I.D. Options"

Method Description Pros Cons Embroidered Collar: *a collar that has the pet's *better than nothing *can be removed and has the animal's and owner's *collars should information embroidered on it never be left on an unattended pet Collar Plate: *a metal plate that is bolted to the collar *better than nothing *can be removed and has the animal's and owner's *collars should information engraved on it never be left on an unattended pet

Tag: *a plastic or metal tag with the *ditto *ditto animal's and owner's information

"Talking" Tag: *contains a recorded message with *ditto *ditto whatever information owner wants to include

Leg Band: *a type of i.d. used most commonly with *good form *owner needs to birds, available in open and closed styles of i.d. if owner check the fit usually made of aluminum worries about a bird's and to make escape; if not worried sure there are about escape I would no sharp edges use nothing instead *some birds react poorly to the metal used or to having a band on their leg

Microchip: * an actual microchip that is enclosed *highly effective if person *not all people In a tiny glass cylinder along with an who finds your pet knows know about Antenna coil and a capacitor. It is of the existence of this form this form of implanted and becomes permanently of i.d. and gets your pet to pet i.d. fixed within your pet's fat. When a scanner. *not all vets, radio frequency energy is placed *registry records info shelters, and near the cylinder, it absorbs the energy and will share that other facilities and starts to transmit the code imprinted info and may make have a scanner on the chip. flyers to advertise *the chip is the loss of the pet concealed so *considered to be like the average a brand, so laboratories person might and thieves cannot use not suspect or sell a "chipped" pet its presence *can be used in a variety *a bit irritating of species when inserted

Tattoo:*an actual tattoo that is either created *highly visible to *a bit irritating with an electronic tattoo pen (like you anyone who finds your pet when find in a tattoo parlor) or by a *inexpensive administered stamp-and-clamp method (this type fades *permanent (unless more readily than an injected tattoo) someone is intensely unscrupulous and goes to the trouble of removing the tattoo) *considered to be a brand, so the possession of a tattooed animal without the owner's permission/sale of tattooed animal/experiementation on tattooed animal holds extremely stiff legal and monetary penalties for the offender *can be used for a variety of species (goats, horses, pigs, dogs, cats, ferrets, etc.) *registries share information, make flyers to canvas locales where pet was last seen, take detailed descriptions of pets so that even if tattoo cannot be read clearly (through fur, etc.) the pet can be identified and returned *One of the oldest registries, Tatoo-A-Pet International (1972), has a 99% recovery rate. Most good registries have similar statistics. AMAZING!

Here are a few tips for pet owners: · Identify your pet. ·

Make a perimeter check part of your daily routine to minimize the possibility of a pet's escape.

· Keep current photographs of your pet, at least one close-up shot and one shot taken from a distance. (Because people may see your pet both ways and you want them to be able to recognize your pet.) Also, take "wet" and "dry" photos of your pet. Your pet may become a bit scrappy looking during her time away from you and probably won't look like the darling ball of fluff whose groomer dolled her up for most of the photos in your family album.

· Have a network of helpers or a phone tree that will be ready to spring into action if your pet is lost.

"Ask Doctor M.J."

"Dear Doctor M.J., What can you tell me about Canine Hip Dysplasia and Pet Lemon Laws?

Our dog is 7 months old and has CHD, but we don't really understand what CHD is. On top of that, his breeder refuses to help us pay for his surgeries. Isn't she supposed to?

" Canine Hip Dysplasia (CHD) is a multifactorial abnormal development of the ball, joint, and muscular system of a canine's hip. Just like humans, dogs have a ball (femoral head) and socket (acetabulum) joint system in their hips. The fit of these components can be rated from normal, to severely dysplastic, to functionally crippled. In CHD dogs the ball and socket don't fit together well, usually leading to pain and a decrease in the range of motion for the dog. Genetics is the primary causative factor of CHD, but nutrition, exercise, and other environmental factors may also affect the expression of CHD in the genetically predisposed dog. This condition is fairly common in medium and large purebred dogs, particularly the German Shepherd Dog and the Golden Retriever, but can be present in smaller breeds as well. CHD is usually diagnosed by using radiographic analysis (X-Rays) or a newer method called PennHip. Most veterinarians don't screen for CHD until a dog is 2 years old, but if your young dog is swishing its bottom or bunny-hopping, or its hip clicks or pops, or you just want an X-Ray done-don't allow a vet to talk you out of it. My purebred Golden Retriever was only 3 months old when I knew that I couldn't take her into the ring because I suspected CHD, but none of the veterinarians would X-Ray her until I threw an absolute fit. Diagnosis: the worst case of CHD that 15 specialists have ever seen. You are the dog's parent, you're paying the bills, and what you say goes. Remember that. So what can you do? First, go to at least 2 specialists who don't know each other or your veterinarian. Do some research on the Internet and learn the terms, varying degrees, types of surgeries, and drug therapies available for your dog's particular stage and degree of CHD. Sit down and make an informed decision about your pet's future. The solution for CHD used to be "putting the dog down", but that is really not always the best option in this day and age. There are many new drugs and surgical techniques that can allow your dog to enjoy a full, happy, pain-free life. Ask your vet about the dangers and benefits of aspirin, phenylbutazone, corticosteroids, Glycoflex, Cosequin, and other anti-arthritic and anti-inflammatory drugs. Rimadyl is a nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drug that is for occasional use when your pet experiences discomfort. Some of the surgeries your vet may discuss with you are:

1. Pectineal Myotomy/Myectomy: the cutting out of a portion of the muscle or cutting of the tendon that goes into and attaches to the femur; used strictly to reduce pain and does little or nothing to improve stability.

2. Shelf Arthroplasty: surgery to form a shelf, or extension, over a shallow socket to improve the stability of the joint. This may or may not alter the progression of CHD in young dogs.

3. Intertrochanteric Osteotomy: the removal of a wedge of bone from the femur to reduce the angle of the femoral neck, to improve the congruity between the ball and socket, and to result in a better "fit."

4. Femoral Head and Neck Excision (Ostectomy): the removal of the femoral head (ball) and neck (area of the femur under it) and the sewing of the muscle pad so that it will attach to the socket.

5. Triple Pelvic Osteotomy (TPO): the cutting of the pelvis at 3 points to allow the socket to be tilted until it is perpendicular to the ball. This surgery must be done before any remodelling of the ball and socket.

6. Unipolar Hip Replacement: the replacement of just the ball or just the socket

7. Total Hip Replacement/Total Hip Arthroplasty: the replacement of the ball and the socket If you purchased your pet from a "pet dealer," someone who sells more than 2 litters per year or more than 20 animals per year you have legal rights to a remedy under the "Pet Lemon Law." Most states have these laws. Florida's Pet Lemon Law states the following: "If within 14 days of purchasing your pet from a 'pet dealer', a licensed veterinarian of your choosing finds that your pet has a disease or internal or external parasites (excluding fleas or ticks), or If within 1 year after you bought your pet, a licensed veterinarian of your choosing finds that your pet has a congenital or hereditary disorder, and your veterinarian says your pet was unfit at the time of purchase, or If the 'pet dealer' misrepresented the breed, sex, or health of your pet, then you have the right to:

1. Retain the animal and receive reimbursement for reasonable veterinary costs for necessary services and treatment related to the attempt to cure or curing of the dog or cat or

2. Return the animal and receive a refund of the purchase price, excluding sales tax, and reimbursement for reasonable veterinary costs- directly related to the vet's examination and certification that dog or cat is unfit for purchase, -and directly related to necessary emergency services and treatment to relieve suffering or

3. Return the animal and receive an exchange animal of equivalent value and reimbursement..." (as stated above) *Reimbursement for veterinary costs may not exceed the purchase price of the animal. *I usually discourage owners from returning pups unless your contract states that you must return it to the breeder if you decide to relinquish ownership. Why? There are unscrupulous breeders out there who might be tempted to destroy the animal to preserve their reputations. If you decide not to keep your pet, consider the Disabled Pet Adoption Network or a breed rescue society. Many are readily accessible on the Internet. How can you insure that a prospective pup won't have CHD? You can't. You should, however, do research on your breeder prior to purchasing a pup. Contact the AKC, the UKC, and purebred dog fancier associations to locate and speak with other owners of pups from the same breeder. Make sure that both parents are OFA (Orthopedic Foundation for Animals, Inc.) certified for hips, eyes, and heart, and get written copies of: OFA certifications of both parents a written guarantee of the pup's health/color/sex and the price that you paid for the pup vaccination and deworming records an Official Certificate of Veterinary Inspection (conducted not more that 30 days prior to your purchase) Even these precautions can't insure that your dog doesn't have CHD, but it can diminish the possibility and can give you stronger legal legs to stand on if your dog is diagnosed with CHD. I really did my homework on my purebred and her breeder. I found the breeder 5 years ago, personally trained and worked with 25 of the dogs she had produced and spoke with their owners often, made sure that both parents were OFA certified "good" or "excellent", and reserved my pup 2 years in advance. We still can't believe that our little baby has such awful hips (and that her breeder wasn't going to give any sort of restitution until we threatened her with a lawsuit). But as a result of these unfortunate circumstances we have learned a great deal about Elsa's condition and are helping her to live a better life and helping other doggies' parents to learn more about CHD. I hope that this answers your questions and please keep me posted on your furry son's condition.

"Ask Doctor M.J."

"My husband and I are going on our first vacation since we got our dogs. We are considering all of our options and are wondering what the differences are between kenneling, boarding, and pet sitting?

" Good question!

*Kenneling generally refers to a stay in a kennel or a facility that has cages, pens, or runs. Kennel staff may give your pet a walk, a playtime in a recreation yard, or access to a play yard. Ask them about this and make sure that you all agree on what sort of exercise they staff will give your pet. Some kennels will allow two of your pets in each enclosure, or a few of your pets if they are small and the enclosure is large. This can often help to make the experience less stressful for your pets, particularly if they are emotionally attached to one another. Kennels in the tri-county area charge anywhere from $6 to $23 a day, depending upon the facility, the size of enclosure, and the number of animals. *Boarding can mean the same as kenneling, but it usually means kenneling with a little more personal attention for your pet, and it can mean that your pet is not put in a cage or a run. When I board pets in my home they aren't caged at all. I only take the pet(s) of one family at a time and the pet(s) take part in all of our daily activities from making beds to dinner time to playtime in the yard, are allowed to wander about our home just like we and our pets do, and are crated only during the night-and only if they have to be. (i.e., if they are having so much fun with my pups that it becomes like a slumber party where no one wants to go to sleep, or if they can't relax and go to sleep because the new environment is too overwhelming, etc.) Visit boarding facilities and kennels without announcing that you plan to do so. Just as you should do spot checks on nursing homes and daycare centers, you should do the same with these facilities. Is the place clean and tidy, or a bit of a disaster zone? Visit it unannounced on several occasions at various times of the day prior to deciding to leave your pet there. Check out the staff and watch how they interact with other people's pets. Give them "what if" scenarios and see if you are happy with their responses. (i.e., "What if my dog begins to throw up? What will you do?", "What if my dog begins twitching uncontrollably? What will you do?", "What if my dog bites that electrical cord right there? What will you do?", etc.) See if the facility has 24-hour supervision and has a veterinarian on call 24 hours a day. You will be trusting these people with your furry, feathered, scaled, or finned "child" and you and your pet need to feel comfortable about the entire situation. Another tip, let your pet decide if he or she likes the place. Animals have an incredible sixth sense that clues them in to many things that we humans miss. If your pet truly dislikes a place or a person, don't force them to stay there. Your pet may know something that you don't. Boarding rates vary, but usually fall between $10 to $25 per day, depending upon the number of pets and other factors.

*Pet sitting refers to the practice of hiring a person to come to your home to take care of your pets.

Don't hire a neighbor, a friend, or a youngster for this important job because oftentimes those folks don't take the responsibility of acting as the stand-in parent seriously. Hire a professional pet sitter who has membership in a professional organization like Pet Sitters International (1-800-268-SITS) or the National Association of Professional Pet Sitters (1-800-296-PETS). There is a lot more to taking care of pets than just picking up poop, scooping litter boxes and cleaning cages, and giving food and water to animals. A good professional pet sitter will be trained in animal first aid and will know something about animal learning processes, psychology, behavior, and training as well. A professional pet sitter will also water your plants, bring in your mail, turn lights off an on so it looks like you are home, and will often perform special duties (like taking out the garbage or putting out the recycling) if you ask. Ask for a resume and references and do your homework before you hire someone. You will be trusting this person with your precious pet and with your home and privacy, so don't just hire someone based on what they tell you about themselves. Check them out. Most professional pet sitters charge from $12 to $16 per thirty-minute visit, but this will vary with location, the sitter's experience, the owner's requests, the number of pets, and other factors.

"Ask Doctor M.J."

"Health Insurance for Pets"

If your family is anything like our family, you probably spend a small fortune on veterinary care for your pets each year.

The cost of routine health care, preventives, and check-ups can slowly add up to a whopping sum before you know it. Then there are little "surprises" from time to time. 2 years ago we hired a pet sitter who didn't follow directions and fed our cats supermarket cat food. One of our cats, Nosi, has delicate digestive and renal systems so he got to have an 8-day "vacation" at the animal hospital …and we wound up with a $763.29+ bill. Luckily Nosi was o.k. after his ordeal was all over, but a bill like that can wipe out your bank account, and if you have several pets (we have 10!) an unforeseen illness can be a real strain on the family finances. Well, don't despair. There is a little light at the end of the tunnel, and it's called pet health insurance. Pet health insurance policy sales began in 1982 with the advent of animal health insurance. Veterinary Pet Insurance was the pioneer insurance provider in this specialized field of insurance. VPI has added to its original policy over the years, and has even created a vaccination and routine care coverage plan that can be added to any policy for under $9 per pet per month. Since VPI's bold move in offering pet health insurance, several companies have dedicated themselves to providing this sort of insurance. You can bring your pet to any licensed veterinarian in any state and your pet will be covered. Many of the pet health insurance companies also provide a registry program, multiple pet discounts, and limited-time money-back guarantees. Most pet health insurance companies only cover cats and dogs, but hopefully all the companies will soon offer coverage for pet reptiles, amphibians, ferrets, Guinea Pigs, and other animals too. Here are just a few of the companies and their telephone numbers so that you can shop around and find the pet health insurance provider that can give you the coverage that you want.

For Cats and Dogs VPI (Veterinary Pet Insurance): 800-USA-PETS Premier Pet Insurance: 877-PPI-CARE Petshealth: 800-799-5852

PetHealth Plus Association: 888-424-4644 For Cats, Dogs, Rabbits, and Horses Petplan: 800-072-7000 For Birds Avi-Care (A Division of Complete Equity Markets, Inc.): 800-323-6234

"Ask Doctor M.J."

"Dr. Price, our dog has suddenly started eating her own # 2 (poop). We're embarrassed to have company over. What do I do?

My horse ate odd things like wood and stones and clothes for years and then just stopped doing it. Will my dog stop on her own too?" Well, what you are describing are two aberrant behaviors that are probably more common than you think. Stool eating is called "Coprophagia" and the eating of non-food substances is called "Pica." There are lots of theories on why animals eat their own, and other animals', stools. The first step I take in helping a client to discover the root of this problem is to find out what sort of food the animal is eating and to have a fecal analysis done. 95% of the time, the root of the problem lies in a poor diet of supermarket food (which often leaves the animal partially undigested-thus inviting the animal to eat it), nutritionally unbalanced scraps, or low-protein and/or low-fiber food or not enough food, AND/OR intestinal parasites. If these things are the causes, then we can put the animal on a "better" food (Eukanuba, IAMS, Science Diet, etc.) and can medicate the animal to kill the parasites. If we can rule out these causes, then I ask the owner to use Forbid or Deter (2 substances that can help to make #2 less of a delicacy) and I move on to finding more about the animal's childhood. Was the animal taken from its mother at a young age? In my research, I have found that animals taken from their mommies prior to 7 weeks of age seem to exhibit this sort of behavior more often than animals who left their mothers later on in their development. Perhaps these animals remember their early days when their mothers would eat food and regurgitate it for their babies. Stools may smell a lot like regurgitated food to these animals. These animals may also eat the stools to comfort themselves-perhaps to remember their younger days with their mommy. Also, when some animals are too young to fend for themselves and cannot leave the nest (refers to any areas where young are raised, regardless of species) to eliminate, the mommy animal cleans the nest by licking up urine and fecal matter. The young animals may remember the smell of the poop on their mother's breath (usually, the young animals' eyes aren't open yet so they don't see this, but they may still know what is happening). So, to recap, here are a few of the theories in list form. The list is not all-inclusive simply because none of us in the pet care professions know precisely what causes this behavior.

1. A poor diet that is low in protein and/or low in fiber

2. A poor diet (usually of supermarket food) that is difficult to digest/leaves food partially digested, and that partially digested food appears in the stool and is still appetizing to the animal

3. Not enough food

4. Internal parasites that leave the animal feeling hungry and/or weak (so it eats its own waste) and effect digestion

5. Animal was removed from mother too early or, for some reason, now needs supplemental emotional comfort

6. Animal remembers that his/her mother did this to keep the nest/surroundings clean

7. Another theory is that the animal does this once, for whatever reason, and then realizes that you will pay attention to him/her (either negatively, which will only exacerbate the problem; or positively, by cooing and coddling and pitying the poor creature, both of which may further encourage the behavior). Pica, which I have seen most often with horses, might be caused by:

1. a poor diet or a change in diet,

2. not enough food,

3. stress (a move, the loss or removal of a stable-mate, a new training routine, new stable-hands, etc.),

4. emotional needs (not enough attention, depression, etc.),

5. a lack of intellectual stimulation (boredom),

6. too much exercise, or other causes. The jury is still "out" as to the causes of both of these behaviors, but those of us who are pet care professionals still haven't figured out all of the causes for Coprophagia and Pica. I hope that I have helped you.

"Thank You For All The Great Information Dr.MJ Price Ph.D."